In the early days of jeans, they were mostly associated with factory workers, farmers, and other laborers. The 1950s saw jeans undergo a change and become synonymous with coolness. The jeans became a status icon, and fashion experiments such as bleaching, washing and dyeing kept them relevant even in the 2000s.
Jeans today are evolving in a new and exciting direction. They go beyond traditional denim. This change helps to keep jeans at the forefront of fashion. Moreover, they have infiltrated the realm of couture and are now a part of the ‘quiet luxury’ trend. This trend emphasizes elegance and sophistication that is known only by the designer and wearer.
“A big reason for this is sustainability and innovation,” explains Rucha Nikumbh, Lead Designer at Around The City.
Noteworthy examples of this evolution include Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2022 collection, which featured jeans crafted from leather. Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2022 collection and Valentino’s have both showcased amazing interpretations and improvements of the classic denim. Julien Dossena for Jean Paul Gaultier sent jeans that were beaded and shimmering down the runway.
Valentino’s haute couture denim collection showcases the trompe l’oeil technique. Vanessa Friedman of the New York Times reports that the jeans worn by Kaia Gerber on the catwalk were constructed from ‘silk gazar entirely embroidered in micro beads dyed in 80 shades of indigo to resemble denim.’ In Balenciaga’s Fall 2023 Haute Couture collection, denim-like looks are achieved using canvas coated with oil paint, creating an optical illusion of conventional cotton jeans.
These denim alternatives have impressive sustainability features, but their prices are often out of reach for most people. This raises questions about the suitability of these denim alternatives for mass market adoption.
Kriti Tula is the co-founder and designer of Doodlage. She says that luxury fashion was always aspirational, unattainable and not intended to be affordable for mass markets. Doodlage is one of India’s first global sustainable and affordable fashion brands focussing on reselling, repair and upcycling while including ethically made recycled fabrics. She explains how Mud Jeans is working on circular jeans and renting models. Jeanologia, another brand, also helps create faded effect with lasers.
Nikumbh admits that these innovations are expensive. “The Bottega Veneta leather trousers itself cost $6800. Yes, it’s expensive. But it tricks the customers into thinking it’s accessible. So the demand and supply ratio doesn’t get affected as much,” says Nikumbh. “You will eventually see trickle down of these non-jean jeans in India. May be in a track pant version or a corduroy pant version where the print tricks you into believing it’s a pair of jeans, but it’s not. It’s not feasible for the mass market, but it works.”
Luxury fashion brands are embracing denim alternatives not just as trend followers but driven by a dual purpose: sustainability and experiential design, explains Udit Toshniwal, Creative Director & Co-Founder of the brand The Pant Project. “While sustainable designs may come with higher production costs due to materials and specialised techniques, there’s a recognition that consumers are increasingly valuing ethical and eco-conscious products. This shift in consumer sentiment is driving brands to invest in sustainable practices,” says Toshniwal
He says that designers are exploring alternatives to denim, such as Tencel and Lyocell for a similar feel and look without damaging the environment. Others experiment with dyeing techniques that are unconventional on fabrics, such as hemp or linen, to achieve denim finishes.
Gurpreet Sing, Director of River of Design(ROD), looks back at the evolution of denim. Denim is produced in a variety of looks and textures thanks to various indigo and yarn blends. River of Design is a brand that develops denim by using different yarn blends and dyes.
“The use of stretch yarn, cotton, and polyesters dyed in the desired percentage of Indigo makes the fabric uniquely versatile and best for our weather conditions. The denim produced is carefully stitched and washed to create GenZ fashion and meet the true price,” says Singh.
Each year, we see new techniques, fabrics, and innovations, which lead to more sustainable ways of using denim.
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